We took a taxi to the SIL compound in Bamenda this morning.
This has vastly different connotations in America and Africa. In America, "taxi" suggests expense, luxury, or perhaps unusual circumstances. In Africa (and, I suspect, in much of the developing world), it is a common and anything-but-luxurious method of transportation.
But, as O. Henry says, wait till I tell you.
If you are to catch a taxi in the city, you must first stand along the side of the road closest to the taxis going the direction you wish to go. Inevitably, this involves crossing the street in front of oncoming traffic (several motorcycles, a honking taxi, a few street vendors and a crowd of children playing football, for example).
Once you are on the correct side of the street to hail a taxi, you proceed to look very interested in taxis. This is an art. It involves little movements of the feet and subtle expressions of the face, I believe. Since about two out of three vehicles on the road are dilapidated yellow Toyota Corollas with pithy slogans painted on the bumper, your chances of getting noticed are fairly good.
If a taxi driver has room and decides you are a customer worthy of notice, he will slow down ever-so-slightly and give one short honk. This is your signal to bellow your destination in his passenger-side window as he passes. If your destination is unacceptable, he indicates this by speeding up again and vanishing out of sight. If the destination is acceptable, he indicates this by stopping long enough for you to climb inside, and almost long enough for you to shut the door.
Once you are inside the taxi, you do one of two things. If you are in any way enamoured of American ideals of driving, you clutch at the nearest object that looks securely attached to the vehicle and shut your eyes tightly. If, on the other hand, you are expecting something of an adventure, you watch as the driver creates his own lane, pulls out in front of oncoming traffic, honks his way through intersections, jounces over the ubiquitous potholes, and weaves around other taxis that stop in front of him. (The patterns of African driving have been elsewhere analysed... suffice it to say that though they are systematic and sensible, the overall effect looks like perilous and gleeful chaos in the eyes of an American.)
Finally, after picking up several other passengers-- a "full" Toyota Corolla is one with four in the front seat and four in the back seat, not counting children-- the driver will stop at your requested destination long enough for you to clamber out and almost long enough for you to close the door securely. (You have, of course, already deposited your 300 francs-- exact change please-- in the driver's right hand, as he takes it off the steering wheel and cups it toward you.)
Then, of course, you usually have to cross the street again.
Dan and I crossed the street to the SIL compound for our dictionary appointment. We entered a different world as we passed through the double gates... which Dan aptly illustrated by immediately glancing at his watch and remarking, "Oops. We're two minutes late."